As I climb slowly away from bed my ideas instantly flip to my footwear. Are they dry? The earlier night, the very first thing I did after checking-in to our lodge in Langholm, drained, moist and soiled was get within the bathe and completely wash my as soon as pristine white footwear. Coated in grime and soaked by, I bought them glowing clear earlier than I turned the cleaning soap on myself. I’d smuggled some thick paper hand towels out of a restaurant earlier within the day figuring out I’d have to stuff them in my footwear in a single day. I can’t begin a journey with moist footwear. I simply can’t. So in that cafe, even earlier than I used to be midway by day one, my ideas had leapt ahead to the beginning of day two.
The towels and heated towel rail had labored their magic. My footwear have been clear and dry, and with recent equipment laid out, I immediately felt extra optimistic in regards to the 100 or so miles that lay forward. A fast breakfast and we have been quickly getting the bike out of the again of the automotive. It was raining. Exhausting. In reality it had been raining a lot of the night time, and water was streaming throughout the roads
Two minutes later, on a fast circle of the city to navigate the one-way system, I’ve picked up the route on my Wahoo head unit. I discover myself using previous the entrance of our heat, dry lodge. Mile zero and my footwear and socks are drenched. Utterly soaked by. Ah effectively, it was good whereas it lasted. Let’s get going.
I’m in southern Scotland using the brand new Kirkpatrick coast to coast route that formally opens this yr. Named after Scottish Blacksmith Kirkpatrick Macmillan who’s credited with inventing the primary treadle bicycle, it’s a two-hundred and fifty six mile route from Stranraer within the west to Eyemouth on the east coast, alongside cycle routes, paths, quiet roads and thru some gorgeous surroundings. It’s part of the nation steeped in a bloody historical past of battles between the English and the Scots, suffering from castles and abbeys, and residential to rugged shoreline and rolling inexperienced hills. And regardless of the rain we’re encountering, it’s one thing of a haven for biking.
Kirkpatrick C2C journey day one, using by farmland in Southern Scotland
(Picture credit score: Andy Jones)
“Are you going for the document?” a canine walker calls over as I pose for a photograph on the seashore at Stranraer. It’s overcast and feels just like the heavy gray clouds are about to burst at any second. “Not immediately,” I reply with false modesty. “Have you ever ridden it?”
“Components of it,” he replies earlier than occurring to say his normal using vacation spot is in Dumfries and Galloway.
There’s not a motorcycle rider to be seen; the route hasn’t been formally opened and there’s actually no begin banner or native dignitaries waving me off, so the very fact this canine walker is aware of what I’m about to tackle suggests the route is already pretty effectively trodden. Eager to get transferring I clip clop up the concrete steps from the seashore and set off. I journey down a residential avenue and straight onto the A75 essential street, or a minimum of on the shared cycle path subsequent to it. Quickly I flip proper and into little lanes, turning left and proper by farmland and previous little lakes – or are they floodwaters? – and not using a city in sight.
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At each flip there’s an indication. In reality, not simply on the flip, however earlier than and after every one. From Stranraer all the best way to Dumfries, 102 miles of using to the east, they don’t miss a beat. Seamlessly navigating you alongside roads, paths, by woods and round or beneath busy junctions. That is due to Sustrans whose routes 73 and seven mix to take you first from Stranraer to Newton Stewart after which on to Dumfries.
Kirkpatrick C2C journey day two, approaching the lengthy climb out of Newcastleton
(Picture credit score: Andy Jones)
Most of those are small blue rectangles with a quantity in a purple sq. and are straightforward to identify as soon as you already know what you’re searching for – and so quite a few I may simply flip my Wahoo’s navigation off. There are plans for particular Kirkpatrick indicators to be added this yr, which can assist over the second half of this route. From Dumfries on, I did want my head unit’s turn-by-turn navigation as indicators have been missing in most locations and a few in-situ indicators for different routes have been pointing in a unique route.
Hitting the coast
Earlier than too lengthy I’m out on an uncovered coastal street. The westerly wind is relentless, whipping in off the Irish Sea over my proper shoulder. Fortunately it’s not a direct cross wind, however barely behind, so serving to my progress. Twenty miles into the journey and I flip left up the primary correct climb, taking me away from the coast. That is the place I’m hit by the complete pressure of the wind, and far to my delight it’s straight behind me.
The following 12 miles roll by in minutes as I cruise alongside at 50kph with little effort. Not solely is the street flat and straight, however facet roads are few and much between and site visitors is non-existent. It’s not usually that travelling at that pace on a motorcycle is that this straightforward, enjoyable and secure. In reality, I’m unsure I’ve ever been so relaxed using at that pace.
Kirkpatrick C2C route
A fast espresso cease in Wigtown the place I fail in my try and dry out and we’re quickly onto the most important climb of the time out of Creetown. Once more, with the wind behind, the 5 miles of mild ascent is nearly imperceptible. On the summit I can benefit from the views of the Massive Water of Fleet Viaduct that cuts by the Cairnsmore of Fleet Nature Reserve.
The descent all the way down to Gatehouse of Fleet is simply as pleasant because the views on the high, with sweeping bends, lengthy straights and normally a superb line of sight. On the backside lies the Ship Inn, and because it’s lunchtime I resolve it’s time to refuel.
The afternoon’s using takes us alongside the picturesque street into Kirkcudbright, then inland to Fort Douglas and onto our vacation spot of Dumfries. It’s these roads that typify the day’s using: small, rolling nation lanes, slicing by miles and miles of farmland and little else – no espresso stops this afternoon, sadly. I even get stopped by a farmer transferring his cows from one area to a different with the assistance of two quad-bike-riding herders.
Journey logistics
Find out how to get there
Stranrear shouldn’t be the simplest place to get to and not using a automotive. We bought the Glasgow service from London Euston, getting off at Carlisle. From there we drove to Stranrear which remains to be two-and-a-quarter hours away. There are native practice providers operating from Glasgow, however it’s a lengthy journey. It’s simpler from Northern Eire with common ferry providers from Belfast. Eyemouth is 9 miles north of Berwick upon Tweed which is on the Edinburgh – London Kings Cross practice route, and simply off the A1.
Using the route
The South of Scotland web site has a number of advisable itineraries for these eager to sort out it in numerous time frames, together with suggestions for locations to remain and factors of curiosity alongside the best way, and gpx recordsdata of the route. scotlandstartshere.com/kirkpatrickc2c/
Kirkpatrick C2C journey day one, climb out of Creetown @Andy Jones
(Picture credit score: Andy Jones)
I take the enforced break as an opportunity to get the low-down on the breed we’re watching cross the street and what they’re good for. The farmer was clearly not impressed by my lack of bovine data. Fortunately photographer Andy Jones is aware of his Hereford from this Belted Galloway.
The cycle lane takes me into the centre of Dumfries and not using a street in sight, and by now it’s getting darkish. With over 80 miles in my legs, happy that I’ve executed sufficient using, I name it a day. We may have stayed right here for the night time, there are many choices, however our hosts have booked us right into a lodge in Langholm, round 30 miles additional alongside the route. I placed on a dry high, leap within the automotive and we head off to seek out it.
It is all in regards to the bike
(Picture credit score: Andy Jones)
I rode a Pearson On and On gravel bike with X1 Shimano GRX 40 X 11-40 and Schwalbe G One 40mm file tread tyres. Chosen for its baggage carrying capability I did in reality depart a lot of the baggage within the photographers automotive. We had loads of floor to cowl, and carrying luggage on the entrance would gradual me down, even with that tailwind.
With or with out baggage it was a motorcycle ideally suited to the journey. There have been climbs and sections of street the place a extra slimline stretched out street bike would have been quicker and allowed me to cowl a bit extra floor, however then it will have struggled on just a few brief sections. This isn’t a route setup for quick using so the consolation and flexibility of a gravel bike was good. Much more so if carrying baggage.
The South of Scotland Vacation spot Alliance that has overseen the creation of this route have introduced us right here, and executed a high charge job of organising our lodging. (Even delaying our keep when a bout of Covid prevented our authentic go to in September.) It’s now their job to advertise – therefore our invite – and is a part of a raft of funding coming biking’s approach in Scotland.
The Scottish authorities has dedicated to spending £320 million of the transport finances on energetic journey by 2024/25 and in addition to enhancing infrastructure is placing cash straight into Native and Nationwide Park Authorities in addition to different our bodies. Internet hosting the 2023 World Championships was all a part of the plan.
Smaller tasks have popped up too. A part of South Ayrshire – dwelling to the previous Premier Calendar race The Girvan – has been designated a street cycle park whereas some cities have added streetside bike stations. I did a double take as I handed a everlasting monitor pump constructed into the pavement in Newcastleton. A small factor, maybe, nevertheless it’s little touches like this that genuinely make locations really feel biking pleasant.
I’ve to confess to a tinge of guilt when climbing into the photographer’s automotive. I had initially deliberate to journey the entire route, however in a short time realise that even with an early begin, and a tail wind, 256 miles in two days in late October is rarely going to occur, particularly with common pictures stops. The intention as an alternative shifts to using as a lot of the route as attainable so as to get a flavour of the world.
Kirkpatrick C2C journey, day two. Climb between Newcastleton and Hawick
(Picture credit score: Andy Jones)
The fantastic thing about the route is that you could create your personal itinerary and take so long as you want to finish it. There are a number of itineraries on the southern Scotland web site (see boxout) from two to eight days, the longer one together with off route excursions to soak up extra of the historical past, websites and tastes (primarily whisky) of close by cities. When planning an itinerary, keep in mind the surfaces you’ll be taking. Using a twisty cycle path by woods and over slender bridges shouldn’t be quick going, and even doing simply 80 miles in a day means I’ve to push on the place I can – partly simply to remain heat.
Journey logistics
(Picture credit score: Andy Jones)
The place to remain
One our first night time we stayed on the three star North West Fort Resort overlooking the bay at Stranraer. Spacious and quiet, it’s additionally the one lodge the place we’ve eaten overlooking a curling rink. Sadly the espresso at breakfast left alot to be desired.
Our midway level was the three star Eskdale Resort in Langholm. A small metropolis centre lodge, it was cosy and comfy with a superb restaurant. However nonetheless no espresso machine at breakfast.
After reaching Eyemouth we opted to drive all the way down to Berwick-Upon-Tweed forward of the practice journey dwelling early the following morning. We stayed at The King’s Arms Resort within the city centre which had an excellent restaurant and, ultimately, good espresso
The place to eat
As a result of timings, and being out of season we ate at our motels. On route we stopped at two nice little cafes for genuinely glorious mid journey coffees and cake. Cafe Rendevous in Wigtown 30 miles in to day one had an awesome choice of meals whereas Cafe Damascus Drum in Hawick, 56 miles into day’s two journey was equally pretty much as good. There are numerous different locations to cease and eat, however for those who’re using the route out of season, I’d suggest checking your deliberate stops and occasions you’ll be reaching them, as some may not be open if you arrive.
The rain that soaked me at first of day two continues all the best way to our morning cease in Hawick. The gorgeous countryside between the 2 factors is essentially obscured by cloud. At one level I’m so moist and chilly I’ve to alter into dry equipment in conjunction with the street. It might be pretty unenjoyable have been it not for the ten miles of mild climbing out of Newcastleton that go straight into my high 20 favorite stretches of street. In summer time I’d be tempted to show round and journey it once more.
After my second sizzling drink and slice of cake in Hawick I’ve to decide. The climate is foul and I nonetheless have 70 miles to get to the coast. Driving to Galashiels and resume using there will get the nod. I really feel one other tinge of guilt, nonetheless, upon assembly two riders heading the opposite approach. We cease for a chat as they mend a puncture and lend them a monitor pump.
They have been using to Stranraer – into that wind – to catch a ferry to Eire in 4 days’ time. It’s late within the afternoon by now. “The place have you ever bought to get to tonight?” I ask, impressed by the quantity of equipment they have been carrying and barely fearful they’d miss their ferry if this wind saved up. “We’ll simply cease wherever,” certainly one of them replies. “We’re sleeping in bivvy luggage.” I resolve to not inform them about my three-star lodge and efforts to dry my footwear out in a single day, want them luck and keep it up.
Kirkpatrick C2C journey day 2, Union Bridge over the River Tweed
(Picture credit score: Andy Jones)
The final 50 miles into Eymouth is rolling however general downhill, together with a brief diversion into England and over the fairly gorgeous Union Bridge that spans the river Tweed. As I journey the ultimate miles, I discover myself questioning a) if I may have ridden the entire route in two days and b) whether or not or not anybody may journey the route in a day.
Unbeknown to me on the time, the FKT (quickest identified time) already exists – Josh Wooden accomplished it in 23 hours and eight minutes. That point is way from unbeatable, nevertheless it’s spectacular contemplating the terrain and biking infrastructure that must be navigated. And whereas I received’t be returning to attempt to set a brand new FKT, the concept of doing this journey with pals over just a few days in higher climate could be very interesting certainly. However there’s no approach I’m sleeping in a bivvy bag.
