If it’s not the world-class snowboarding within the winter or Mt. Fuji, many of the hyped imagery round Japan is the neon lights of Shibuya Crossing, the crush of bars in Shinjuku’s Golden Gai, or the irrationally well-liked Working Man signal alongside Dotonburi canal. That, and the bizarre meals.
However get outdoors the mega-metropolis of Tokyo, temple-filled Kyoto, and deceptively chill Osaka, and there’s a way more attention-grabbing facet of Japan to find. And, naturally, one of the simplest ways to do this is by bike.
Trip & Search affords simply such a chance with their Samurai Biking Tour, a two-parter that begins in northern and central Honshu (mainly the center of Japan), then finishes with a tour round Shikoku Island, the massive island simply west of Osaka. All in, it’s practically a month of driving, together with bonus loops round Mt. Fuji, however you possibly can break it up into elements as wanted. If that feels like enjoyable, right here’s every little thing you should know, plus tales from our expertise driving the Shikoku Islands stage with them in Could 2024…
About Trip & Search
Trip & Search is a worldwide biking tour operator, with multi-day to multi-week excursions everywhere in the world. Most have a slight theme based mostly on the situation, with the purpose being to immerse you into the tradition greater than you would do by yourself. In addition they deal with all on-the-ground logistics and, if wanted, can advise on coordinating journey, bicycle transportation, and so forth.
That logistics half is essential, particularly in Japan. Not solely is the language barrier increased, however discovering good resorts in the midst of nowhere is difficult. Discovering eating places (any restaurant) that shall be open if you want them to be is even more durable. And even when they’re open, as a foreigner, they could flip you away…not as a result of they don’t like foreigners, however as a result of they’d relatively say no than threat offering sub-par service. That, otherwise you wanted a reservation in order that they might have the meals and employees readily available. It’s tough, however Trip & Search handles all that and rather more for you.
They’ve a main workforce for every location, then contract with vetted locals as wanted based mostly on group dimension. There’s at all times 1-2 guides driving with the group, and one particular person (or extra, as wanted) in assist autos. For the Japan journey, they coated breakfast and dinner, and we have been on our personal for lunches most days (see the “meals” part additional all the way down to see why).
In addition they arrange snack stops a number of instances every day, with a mixture of native treats, candies, and snacks you’re unlikely to seek out at dwelling. Plus sports activities drink, sodas, power bars, and extra.
The guides additionally embrace snack stops at native spots, like this cafe that serves an egg and banana…and occasional (and that’s it). Different instances it’s a small store that has native baked items, jams, jellies, ice cream, and different treats. That is the native information that’s arduous to get by yourself, which is among the massive perks of an organized tour.
Japan has quite a lot of merchandising machines that serve each cold and warm espresso, koucha and ocha (black and inexperienced teas), but when none are close by, our guides made pour-over espresso, too.
Snacks are arrange on the finish of every day’s experience, too, so we might refuel earlier than hitting the onsens (sizzling baths) and enjoyable earlier than preparing for dinner.
Loos are plentiful, too. Japan has an abundance of public bogs, and so they’re virtually at all times clear, well-stocked, and lots of have heated bathroom seats with bidets. Oddly, most do not have cleaning soap or towels, and hand dryers are sporadic, so it’s a good suggestion to convey alongside a small factor of hand sanitizer, or use the one offered by the guides on the snack stops.
Pre-trip assist is great, with loads of documentation. As soon as we arrived, an data packet had printed particulars for every day plus widespread Japanese greetings and phrases, which is a useful reference.
There’s additionally a pre-trip app that has a lot of the identical data in case you choose display screen to paper, or simply need to have a fast reference to the day’s route whilst you’re out driving.
The guides additionally present every day route information via Trip With GPS, and may also help you get them onto your biking computer systems, too. You’ll must create a free RWGPS account upfront, and it’s useful if you know the way to get a route onto your machine. Most days provide brief and lengthy routes, so you may get extra driving and climbing if you need, however sometimes even the brief routes will hit the entire scenic highlights.
Supported, not rushed
One of many issues I preferred greatest about Trip & Search is that there’s a really unfastened agenda. You could have a breakfast time and a time for dinner, after which a complete lot of hours in between.
We have been in a position to experience at our personal tempo, cease and take as many photographs (foolish or in any other case) as we wished, discover the temples and villages, and customarily create the expertise we wished.
For us, that’s good. Even when we weren’t documenting the expertise for this story, we like stopping and exploring, as you’ll see within the photographs under (plus extra on our private Instas – @tylerbenedict and @collective.wild).
It’s additionally good as a result of the hammerheads can hammer, and the slower people can mosey. It means you possibly can convey alongside buddies or household of various ranges and everybody can benefit from the journey. There’s no strain to maintain up, and no expectation to attend up.
That mentioned, everybody needs to be in fine condition and in a position to comfortably deal with 40 to 70 miles/day for 8+ consecutive days, and repair a flat and different little issues which will go incorrect. So long as you make it to dinner, you will be as autonomous as you want.
Biking via Shikoku
I’ve mountain biked close to Nagano, simply east of Trip & Search’s Honshu Stage of the Samurai Cycle Tour, and it’s rad. For this Shikoku stage, the terrain was fully new to me however, regardless of being a bit extra coastal, it was simply as mountainous.
Our eight days of driving had a claimed 24,800 ft of climbing (7,560m) with a mean of simply 53 miles per day. That’s a hair over 3k ft of climbing per day, although some days undoubtedly had greater than others.
Japan’s inhabitants is clustered within the massive cities for a cause – it’s impractical to construct anyplace else. Their main cities are usually surrounded by both the ocean or mountains. These mountains are so steep, and so they get a lot rain, that it merely isn’t possible to construct there. When you head out and up, site visitors and folks shortly disappear.
Shikoku is much more distant. There aren’t any main cities on it, and only some bridges (and even fewer trains) connecting it. Which makes it a fantastic place to experience if you wish to discover a extra historical facet of Japan.
Our route adopted elements of the Kobo Daishi pilgrimage path, which has 88 temples, and climbed over the very best mountain in Western Japan (Mt Ishizuchi, 1,982m / 6,502ft).
The upside to all that rain is that the roads are virtually all completely paved. Or, at the least, very properly maintained. Even in probably the most distant areas, the roads is likely to be single-lane, however they’re clean and quick.
The place a lot of the world would go away these forest service roads and connectors as grime or gravel, Japan’s voluminous rain means they’d be grading, repairing, and changing them continuously. They’d wash away too shortly. In order that they pave them. Which means gravel biking is more durable to seek out in Japan, however it additionally means countless ribbons of lovely, traffic-free roads via lush inexperienced forests and epic mountains.
Many of the days are spent crossing the inside of the island via a mixture of villages, rice paddies, and mountain roads. Loads of selection, and loads of climbing!
There are many miles alongside rivers, and plenty of small bridges to cross only for enjoyable and views.
Wildlife
Hold an eye fixed out for the Tanuki, aka “Japanese Racoon Canine”. Should you’ve ever performed Tremendous Mario Brothers and thought you have been carrying a racoon swimsuit, assume once more. It’s additionally in Animal Crossing.
Tanuki statues are massively well-liked, discovered outdoors virtually each door we handed. They supposedly convey good luck, but additionally characterize belief, success, safety, and extra, relying on how they’re dressed.
Nearer to the coast you’ll discover small crabs. I additionally discovered an enormous toad, hearth stomach newt, and…
…a large Japanese Blue Worm, actually one of many coolest creatures I’ve ever seen. There are additionally monkeys, deer, and extra, plus massive black birds that look and sound like ravens however are literally a big Jungle Crow.
Additionally price noting: Nearly each nook has a mirror so you possibly can see what’s coming across the bend. It’s very useful, letting you are taking the corners a bit of faster and have extra enjoyable with out being stunned. They work rather well, however clearly, you need to nonetheless use warning.
Shimanami Kaido Bikeway & the Bridges
The journey finishes alongside the southern coast, then one other day inland, then a fast practice switch to complete issues off with the superb 60km+ lengthy Shimanami Kaido bikeway, a collection of suspension bridges and 6 small islands that hyperlink Shikoku with the principle island of Honshu.
Japan has invested in biking tourism right here in attention-grabbing methods. Whereas there are “Blue Line” cycle paths marked alongside related coastal roads on the Kii Peninsula (south of Osaka and Nara), these are extra closely trafficked and lined with companies. I rode a few of these sections after this tour and ended up shifting again into the mountains to get away from the vehicles.
On Shikoku, although, it’s so distant and disconnected that there’s little or no site visitors, even on lovely coastal roads like these.
Probably the most spectacular funding is the bikeway that was constructed into the suspension bridges connecting Shikoku to Honshu. It was purpose-built with separate biking lanes and, in some circumstances, even separate lanes for scooters, too.
The recognition of it’s obvious from the variety of rental bikes we noticed, and teams of informal cyclists. It nonetheless wasn’t crowded, however undoubtedly extra riders across the bridges than anyplace else we rode.
And for good cause – it’s actually cool. The ramps main as much as and down from the bridge loop round in circles and determine eights and are fairly enjoyable…
…and the views from up high are stellar:
It’s a wonderful strategy to end, and the final night time’s lodge is one thing particular, too. It’s one of many few with out an onsen, however it’s totally fashionable, cycle themed, and the dinner contains 90 minutes of all-you-can drink…in case you’re into that form of factor.
Meals and extra
Breakfast and all however one dinner is included within the tour, and all of us ate collectively for each.
The host resorts all served a full Japanese breakfast, which is numerous small plates of issues you possibly can combine collectively in your mouth to create totally different flavors. Or not. They have been largely good, at all times attention-grabbing, and because of the limitless rice, at all times sufficient. Truthfully, in case you’re not an adventurous eater, breakfasts shall be powerful until you search out your personal…which may even be powerful because of the distant location of most of our resorts.
(We rode previous quite a lot of 7-Elevens, Lawsons, and Household Marts, which all have loads of different choices…and glorious fried rooster, severely).
Every restaurant served the same multi-dish dinner, often in waves that ended up being a LOT of meals. And quite a lot of seafood, some in kinds and flavors you’ll undoubtedly not acknowledge. Candied fish, anybody?
As a lot as all of us, and there was a mixture of People, Europeans, and Brits on the tour, have been craving a burger by night time 5, the meals is a part of the expertise and superb. Sometimes, Japanese don’t eat like this – it’s quite a lot of work. But it surely’s what you’ll discover when staying at traditional-style resorts and ryokans. Right here’s a gallery of extra of our meals (click on any photograph to enlarge):
Which is why it’s cool that we get to decide on our personal lunches:
Our guides had ideas, however some spots had a number of choices. And we sought out takoyaki stands after we noticed them. It’s pan-fried dough balls with octopus in them, coated in quite a lot of sauces and seasonings. Very scrumptious, and a preferred snack in Japan.
A giant, sizzling bowl of pork ramen with the particular egg can also be a fantastic, filling choice. I undoubtedly suggest asking for it oomori (massive portion) with an additional serving of pork (a regular serving is often solely 2-3 slices).
I additionally strongly suggest trying round. The beneficial lunch spot(s) is/are often a “protected” choice, however we discovered meals vehicles throughout the road with far more attention-grabbing dishes. This one smoked and seared contemporary Bonito proper in entrance of us, then sliced, seasoned, and plated it with pickled greens and extra. It was superb, and amazingly low-cost…roughly $6 USD.
Don’t be afraid to discover, that’s the rationale they depart lunch as much as you. Take benefit!
Additionally, strive the native drinks, and take a look at the ice cream part on the konbini (comfort shops)…numerous tasty treats there! Some eating places had sake flights so you would strive native and regional sake, too.
Be aware: Whereas breakfast and dinners are included, alcoholic drinks are in your dime for many meals, as is lunch and additional snacks, and so forth. I like to recommend bringing about 20,000 yen in money with you, and use the ATMs at each c-store in case you want extra. Not each retailer or cafe takes bank cards.
Motels & Sizzling Baths
The resorts have been a mixture of Western-style and conventional ryokan, the place you lay out sleeping mats on the tatami flooring at night time. Or, in case you’re driving buddy snores, you allow their pad within the closet and shut the door…
Normally, you need to take your footwear off as quickly as you enter your room, however at all times for rooms with tatami mat flooring. One lodge had a shared toilet on the corridor and offered bathtub slippers, so that you’d swap out of your room slippers to the bathtub slippers, then again. You’ll additionally take off your footwear and slippers earlier than coming into the onsen.
Onsens
An Onsen (ōn-sin) is greater than a sizzling tub, it’s a public bathtub. The place Scandinavian cultures go to sizzling springs to soak, Japanese go to bathe.
However don’t fear, nobody’s scrubbing within the sizzling swimming pools. Showers line the doorway, and everybody is predicted to completely cleanse themselves earlier than coming into the water. Many individuals spend extra time cleansing than soaking, however the way you take pleasure in it’s as much as you…after you’re showered.
Nearly all are separated for women and men and don’t permit garments, telephones, cameras, meals, drinks, or tattoos. Sure, you need to get bare, dems the principles. Motels with onsens, of which most had them throughout our tour, present robes to put on to and from the baths, and small wash towels that additionally make nice modesty items in case you’re uncomfortable strolling round naked.
There are some out of doors spots with foot soaks, that are co-ed, and sometimes you could find a sizzling spring feeding right into a river that’s public. However most onsens and baths are non-public and separated.
These are a spotlight of the journey. Soaking after an extended experience is superb, and particularly on the cooler days. This journey is obtainable twice per 12 months, in Could and October. The Could journey ends simply as southern Japan is about to enter its wet season, so there’s a superb probability of sprinkles. We had a few days with showers, however nothing critical, and nothing that stopped us from driving. Deliver a rain jacket, and soak within the onsen after!
Notes & extra photographs
Our guides Nate & Eri have been nice. Tremendous pleasant, pleased to assist with something, and had the logistics dialed, luggage loaded and unloaded, and lodge check-ins coated earlier than we even completed the experience every day. All we needed to do was present up, experience, and revel in ourselves, which is precisely what you’d need and count on from a full-service guided tour like this. They took turns driving and driving the van, so we bought to know every of them…after we might sustain – they’re each rippers up and down the mountain!
Should you’re in search of a well-structured, expertly-guided biking tour, I like to recommend trying out Trip & Search’s intensive journey catalog. And in case you’re concerned with Japan, try their Samurai Biking Tour. We loved ourselves immensely, thanks each to the guides’ tales and intel, and likewise as a result of we might discover on our personal, too. The route was the correct mix of arduous and enjoyable, with loads of brief detours to be discovered if you need.
Nate even waited as much as loop us via a small alley with an area brewery so we might seize a bottle for later, and so they identified cool outlets and native treats alongside the best way.
Independently, and away from the guides, Steve and I additionally requested the opposite members what they considered the tour. They largely echoed our sentiments, which is spectacular contemplating they ranged in age from late 20s to 82! Plus, everybody’s biking expertise and private backgrounds various significantly, too, so the consensus confirmed our opinions in one of the simplest ways.
It additionally made for an attention-grabbing week, speaking to everybody, making new buddies, and sharing our collective photographs and tales from every day. It’s at all times attention-grabbing how totally different individuals expertise the identical factor, and I respect that there’s at all times one thing to study from others. Sharing meals made that straightforward.
Temples and extra photographs
We took a LOT of photographs. And video, which you’ll see in among the evaluations for merchandise we used (listing at backside of this publish). A lot of our facet journeys have been stops at numerous temples, which ranged from massive and grand…
…to small and hidden, tucked down a path subsequent to a waterfall. Our greatest recommendation? Simply go searching, and take time to cease. Right here’s one of the best of the remainder of our pics from Trip & Search’s Samurai Biking Tour.
Enormous because of Trip & Search for internet hosting us. Full disclosure, they coated the price of the tour for us, however we paid for our flights and pre- and post-trip resorts and practice rides, lunches, and different ancillary prices. To make this potential, our journey was additionally supported by the next manufacturers – Hyperlinks to evaluations will go reside as they’re are printed:
- Lauf Cycles (Uthald highway bikes)
- GoreWear (driving kits & gloves)
- CEP Socks (driving & journey socks)
- OSMO Diet (hydration, gas & restoration)
- Trek (footwear, helmets, bottles & lights)
- Huckberry (merino journey garments – on GearJunkie)
Take a look at dates, charges, routes, and extra particulars at RideAndSeek.com
